Prismacolor pencil and ink drawing in my Moleskine sketchbook. November 2011

The following is an excerpt from the December Margie’s Muse.

Readers often ask “what is a color that is flattering to anyone and everyone?” I never believed there was one because people are so very different and millions of colors, shades, tones, tints, and intensities abound in fabrics and beads. I decided to learn what others have to say about this, and lo and behold, the Real Simple website has an interesting feature on the subject… complete with photos!

It is the photos that make the article worth devoting a column to: four photos show four differently colored women in what Real Simple calls “The 4 Universally Flattering Clothing Colors.” The pictures do support the thesis, though four skin/hair colorings is a small sampling. However, I applaud Real Simple for the photos: these kind of claims are usually accompanied by no support photos and just a written description of a color, which is of no help to anyone.

I’ve made swatches of the four colors (and a light and dark version of two). They are in my PDF article that corresponds to this blog post.

Please read the Real Simple article. And tell me what you think.

My opinion? For those of us who make jewelry to sell to the ubiquitous Unseen Customer, these four colors provide a launch pad and give us a little more confidence that our color selections will fit someone.

The most promising colors are Eggplant and Indian Teal: they are muted versions of appealing, sophisticated colors. I would use them first when making jewelry for my Unseen Customer.

True Red is the wildcard. A strong, striking color, it looks fantastic on many people. The article quotes Bill Blass as saying “When in doubt, wear red.” It lends power and allure to the wearer. But everyone? I’m wondering how the palest, blondest woman would stand up to it.

I find Mellow Rose questionable, as I know many women and men whose faces would look washed out by this pale, gentle tint (including mine).

I’d like to hear your thoughts: color@margiedeeb.com

Read more Margie’s Muse in the archives.

The following is an excerpt from the October Margie’s Muse column.

I’m in the process of writing my 5th book, The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design. Because I want to make it invaluable, I’ve been soliciting feedback from my newsletter subscriber list and Facebook. I asked about the challenges you face as a jewelry designer in several arenas: color, composition, style, durability, wearability, and more.

Rosanne Andreas responded “…working with iris/metal beads is a color challenge.” Since the topic of last month’s Margie’s Muse column was “Escape the Dark Metallic Iris Trap,” I’d like to explore some of the most aesthetic approach to incorporating metallic iris beads in jewelry.

First, let’s visually dissect the metallic iris bead. When we look at the bead we are seeing three things simultaneously: the actual base color of the bead, a coaing on the surface much like shifting oil slick colors, and a reflective “hot spot” (a bright white dot reflecting the source of illumination right back to us). Each bead is like a little planet with its own surface (the original color), atmosphere (the AB finish), and sun (the hot spot). Keep in mind that all of this is taking place on every single bead. Visually, these are active, busy beads.

The most common mistake is…

Click here to read the entire column

Two years ago while teaching at the Toronto Bead Society Bennet explained the phrase “matchy-matchy” to me: “If a woman is wearing a turquoise dress, turquoise hat, turquoise earrings, turquoise necklace and everything is the same shade of turquoise,  it’s very… matchy-matchy.” She frowned. (You have to frown or scowl when using the phrase.) Urban Dictionary explains it as “Often used in fashion blogs. Used to describe an outfit that is too co-ordinated and consists of too many of the same types of colours, patterns, fabrics, accessories, designer pieces, thematic elements, etc.” The term is a distinctly negative.

Today’s question(s): What are your thoughts about a set of jewelry (earrings, necklace, bracelets) that closely? As a jewelry designer, how much do you want your earrings to match your necklace and bracelet? As a jewelry wearer, how much do you want your earrings to match your necklace and bracelet? If you steer away from matchy-matchy, how much do you vary the design of each piece?

Thanks, Co-authors, for helping me write “The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design.”

Today’s question is:

What unusual JEWELRY DESIGN requests have you received? 

Thanks, Co-authors, for helping me write “The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design.”

So I can give you what you need in the pages of The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design, I’d like to hear your experiences in designing custom jewelry.

I will ask 1 question at a time (per newsletter or Facebook post).

Today’s question is: What are the most typical requests you receive when asked to design jewelry for others?

Please keep your answers brief. You can respond to me on Facebook (my preference): http://www.facebook.com/margiedeebpage

or eMail your answers to: design@margiedeeb.com

Check this out beaders: Lark is giving away 6 signed Beadweaving Master Class books, including books by
Diane Fitzgerald, Marcia DeCoster,Laura McCabe, Sherry Serafini, Maggie Meister, and Rachel Nelson-Smith:
http://bit.ly/qWhrQh

Their post also includes links to lots of free project PDFs from the books and interviews with some of the authors.

I’m working on my 5th book and I want you to be my co-author, so that The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design gives you exactly what you want and need.

The Plan
From now through June 2012 I’ll be asking you questions, seeking your advice and feedback, and requesting examples from you. I’ll be chronicling our progress. If you respond, you, your words, or your jewelry may be in the pages of the book (with your permission). You will be acknowledged for your contribution.

I’ll do this through this my Facebook Artist Page: http://www.facebook.com/margiedeebpage

If you want to be a part of this adventure, please subscribe so you won’t miss any of my requests.

About The Book
The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design is not a technique, construction, or project book. Rather, it will teach both seasoned professionals and beginners how to design, or improve their design. It will demonstrate design concepts and principles and show you how to apply them. It will explain the aesthetics of function, form, and wearability. Ultimately, it will inspire you to create, grow, and creatively express more of yourself.

OK, Here’s Where You Come In
The First Question: What problems do you face when designing jewelry?
To get your mind working, here are more leading questions:
Are you challenged by shape or composition?
Does color baffle you?
Is making focal points within a piece difficult?
Do you know how to lead the viewer’s eyes around and within a piece?
Do you have trouble making a piece look unified?
Do you have problems with your work looking boring or lifeless?
Not sure where to begin when trying to design?
Stumped as to how to take your design skills from solid to spectacular?

Please keep your answers brief. You can respond at http://www.facebook.com/margiedeebpage, or Email your answers to: design@margiedeeb.com

Thank you! I’m so excited about our journey together!

It happens to many bead artists, especially seed bead weavers. They feel insecure choosing colors for a new project. They begin to doubt themselves and their color instincts. And then, like grasping for an aspirin, they head straight for the dark metallic iris beads they think will cure every color ailment. They cross their fingers for good luck, hoping those dark metallic iris beads will pinch hit for a strong, memorable palette.

They will not.

Time and again the cover of our beloved bead magazines display the featured project in dark metallic iris beads; sometimes several variations at a time. The side-by-side weaving of 3 kinds of dark metallic iris beads looks less like a well-planned color scheme and more like a dark, reflective mass of indistinguishable tones reminiscent of the skin of that wet reptilian creature that burst from the astronaut’s chest in the movie “Alien.” If I want to discern the design, I have to squint to visually separate it from the confusing, murky color palette. It’s difficult to comprehend exceptional design when it’s palette is boring, or worse, mediocre. And the dark, metallic iris palette is exactly that: mediocre.

I’ve seen many a good piece of beaded jewelry (and many a good artist) hiding behind the dark metallic iris palette. Sure the beads themselves tempt us with their shiny colors (as do most beads), but they don’t make the most appealing palettes. They are at best, OK. And who wants to settle for “OK”?

6 Escape Tips

1. Become aware of the trap itself. If you’ve read this article, you’ve handled this.

2. If you have the slightest hesitation about choosing colors (who doesn’t?) grab a color wheel! Pick ONE color, then spin the wheel and read the different combos it shows you. Use one of them.

3. Borrow palette ideas from everything that appeals to you: fabric, clothing, linen catalogues, etc.

4. Educate yourself. The archives of my monthly “Margie’s Muse” column will provide you with more valuable color training than you have time for. FREE! Or read my color books (available on my website). Or take my online color classes.

5. Consciously look at color combinations that excite you. Take the time to determine what makes them work. Chances are the variations of light and dark are a major reason (a feature the dark, metallic iris palette lacks).

6. Take risks! Shut your eyes and grab handfuls of beads, tubes, or hanks. Commit to making a color palette using 3 of them.
If you must create jewelry in the dark metallic iris palette, don’t do so out of self-doubt, insecurity, or ignorance. Do it because it speaks to your soul and makes your spirit sing. Or because your customer will pay you for it.

Life is too short and too delicious for boring beadwork and mediocre palettes.

Excerpt from The Beader’s Guide to Color

Something happens when you pair the enchantment of adjacent colors with the gusto of complements… something rousing and vigorous, coursing with life. This “something” is technically called the analogous complementary scheme. But what really happens is magic.

"Waning Crescent” by Margie Deeb exemplifies the analogous complementary scheme. Tranquil blues play the dominant role, emphasizing the meditative reverie of the night drenched dreamer. One complementary accent–moonlight yellow–commands our attention. Tapestry created by Frieda Bates in peyote stitch.


Analogous complementary scheme on the wheel

Analogous-complementary scheme of "Waning Crescent"


Begin this magic by choosing an analogous group of two or three colors adjacent to each other on the wheel—okay, four if you must! This group becomes the dominant color force.

For the complementary part of this alchemy, select the color directly across from the middle of the analogous group. This direct complement becomes the accent color. Or, choose a near-complement (one on either side of the direct complement).

You have now created a dominant color grouping of three similar colors accented with the direct complement (or the near-complement) of one of them. See the color wheel for “Waning Crescent.”

A show-stopping combination of brilliant, irresistible colors comprise this startling analogous complementary scheme. Necklace by Margie Deeb based on a technique by Diane Fitzgerald.

Analogous-complementary scheme for the blue and orange dichroic necklace in photo

Got it? Good! That was “Analogous Complementary Magic 101.”

To graduate to “202,” switch the dominant color to feature its complement rather than one of the analogous members. Mingle accents of the analogous colors into the dominant background made of the complementary color.

In the necklace and accompanying color wheel for the blue/orange necklace, the blue sits directly across the wheel from the orange of the yellow-orange analogous group. It could have been used as an accent color, with startling results. But instead, blue was used as the main color. The results are equally stunning.

To practice “Analogous Complementary Magic 303,” extend the palette. Rather than using just one complementary color, put two or three to work. See “Chanin Study” (below).

An extended, complex interpretation of the analogous complementary scheme. “Chanin Study” by Margie Deeb (created by Frieda Bates) was inspired by the abstract Art Deco ornamentation on the Chanin Building in New York.

Analogous-complementary scheme for "Chanin Study"

Avoid a random mish-mash of colors, logical relationships have been established. The analogous members are grouped together: violet, purple and red serve as a background, greens and yellows swirl and flow in front.

An extended analogous complementary scheme is as complex to work with as it is to say aloud. Juggling these many colors, especially complements, requires planning.

But it is worth every effort. What happens when you harmonize and balance this lively array of color? Pure magic!

Download and read the full article in PDF format at my website:

http://margiedeeb.com/cc/pdf/muse/2011/MargieDeeb_Muse_2011_7.pdf